Allen Meadows - Score: 88-90 (2004 April)

This is aromatically riper and more forward than the Teurons and it is right on the edge for me as being almost too ripe. However, as do many 2002s, the freshness remains despite the ripeness and buffers it such that the ripe, rich, velvety and full-bodied flavors do not descend into heaviness or display excessively roasted nuances. The finish is most impressive, combining really lovely texture with sweetness and fine length. In short, this manages to retain a strong sense of balance and is really quite interesting.